How to Mount Epiphytes: A Complete Guide for Portland Plant Lovers
If you've ever looked at a staghorn fern hanging on a wood plaque at a plant shop and thought I want that in my home but have absolutely no idea how — this guide is for you.
Epiphytes are plants that grow naturally on other surfaces rather than in soil. In the wild, you'll find them clinging to tree trunks, rock faces, and the underside of branches, drawing moisture from the air and nutrients from whatever organic matter collects around their roots. In your home, they can be mounted to wood, cork bark, or wire frames to create living wall art that's genuinely hard to kill once you get the setup right.
We do a lot of epiphyte mounts in our shop and in client spaces around Portland. Here's everything you need to know to do it yourself.
What Counts as an Epiphyte?
Epiphyte is a broad term - it literally means 'upon a plant.' These are species that evolved to grow on surfaces rather than in the ground. That doesn't make them parasites since they don't feed off their host. When light and space down below are hard to find - they're just really good at finding moisture and nutrients in unexpected places.
Common epiphytes you'll encounter at a plant shop include:
Staghorn ferns (Platycerium) - a popular choice for dramatic wall mountsTillandsias (air plants) - small, low-maintenance, and incredibly versatileOrchids (many varieties, especially Phalaenopsis and Cattleya) - beautiful mounted on cork or woodHoyas - our favorite for their unbelievable bloomsBromeliads - related to pineapples, just as dramatic
Each species has slightly different needs, but the mounting process shares the same approach: give the roots something to grip, keep moisture available, and let air circulate.
What You Need to Mount an Epiphyte
You don't need a lot of supplies, but you do need the right ones. Here's a basic list:
The mount
Natural wood is a popular option - cedar and redwood are great because they resist rot. Upcycled wood planks can add a unique design elements. Cork bark works beautifully and adds texture - orchids and air plants especially enjoy the added surface area. If you’ve taken a trip to the Coast recently, driftwood also adds a sculptural quality for a more organic look. Avoid pressure-treated lumber; the chemicals aren't plant-friendly.
Growing medium
Sphagnum moss is the standard choice. It holds moisture without staying soggy, and most epiphytes love it. You can also use coconut coir or soil balls (with a little moss mixed in to provide extra air).
Attachment
Fishing line, burlap stapled to the board, floral wire, or natural jute twine all work. Fishing line is our favorite as it doesn’t break down! The goal is to hold the plant firmly against the mount without crushing the roots. You might be able to remove or trim what is holding the mount eventually, once the roots attach on their own.
A hook or hanging hardware
You can put a large picture hanging bracket on the back of your mount with a simple picture hanging kit. We often just drill two small holes at the top of the mount and use an additional line or jute to create a small loop - it is so easy!
How to Mount a Staghorn Fern
Staghorn ferns are the most dramatic of the common epiphytes and the most popular for wall mounting. Here's how to do it:
Start by soaking a handful of sphagnum moss in water until it's fully saturated, then squeeze out the excess so it's moist but not dripping. Place the moss in the center of your wood plaque - this is the growing medium the roots will attach to. Set the fern on top of the moss, positioning it so the antler fronds (the forked, deer-antler-shaped leaves) face outward and the shield fronds (the flat, basal leaves) press against the mount.
Wrap fishing line around the entire assembly - moss, shield frond, and all - going around the board in several directions to hold everything firmly in place. You’re going for perfectly imperfect - snug, not strangling. Once the roots attach to the mount over the next several weeks, you can trim the wire away (but you don’t have to).
Hang your mount in a spot with bright indirect light and water it by soaking the moss thoroughly once or twice a week, depending on how dry your home is. In Portland's winters, once a week is usually enough. In summer or if you keep your heat high, you may need more.
How to Mount a Hoya
Hoyas are one of our favorite mounts because there are near endless leaf textures and patterns, they are one of the few plants that can tolerate direct light, and they BLOOM.
To mount the hoya, shake off excess dirt from the root ball. Mix a bit of that soil with sphagnum moss. Form a small cluster of this mixture around the roots and place on the board. Place the plant so the foliage is in the form you enjoy - upright, cascading, or spreading. Layer moss around the root ball forming a pocket that is barely open at the top.
Use your fishing line to wrap around the moss pocket and the board several times until it is secure. Soak your board once a week if in bright light, or less in cooler weather months.
How to Mount Air Plants (Tillandsias)
Air plants are the easiest epiphytes to mount because they're so small and adaptable. We’ve see them glued with floral glue or a low-temp hot glue gun (no super glue), but we like to loosely tie them with fishing wire, or simply wedge them into the cord.
Care is simple: mist liberally once a week, shake off excess water, and let them dry upside down before placing them back - to prevent rot in the base. Make sure they're in a spot with bright indirect light and decent air circulation. A bathroom with a window can work great if you're consistent about watering.
Common Mounting Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
The most common issue we see is overwatering. Mounted epiphytes dry out faster than potted plants, so people compensate by watering constantly - and then the roots rot. Get in the habit of checking the moisture before you water, not going by schedule alone.
The second mistake is placing a mounted plant in direct sun or total darkness (bathroom are a common problem). Most epiphytes evolved under a forest canopy. They want bright light, not scorching afternoon sun. A south or east-facing window with a sheer curtain is usually perfect.
Third: using rot-prone materials. Pine and other soft woods will deteriorate faster than you'd want. Invest in cedar, redwood, or cork bark up front.
Want to Learn in Person? We Offer DIY Mounting Classes
If you'd rather learn by doing, we run hands-on plant mounting classes right here at our SE Clinton shop. You'll leave with a finished staghorn mount or plant display you made yourself, plus the knowledge to do it again at home.
Check our events calendar for upcoming classes — or stop by the shop at 2627 SE Clinton St and ask us about the next session.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take for an epiphyte to attach to a mount?
Most epiphytes will begin developing attachment roots within 4-8 weeks in good conditions. Staghorn ferns tend to be faster; orchids can take longer. You'll know it's working when you see white or silvery root tips extending toward the mount.
Can I mount an epiphyte on anything?
Natural materials work best - cedar, redwood, cork bark, or driftwood. Avoid anything treated with chemicals or that will rot quickly. Metal mounts can work for certain air plants but aren't ideal for moisture-loving species like staghorns.
Where can I buy epiphytes and mounting supplies in Portland?
We carry staghorn ferns, tillandsias, cork bark, sphagnum moss, and mounting hardware right here at Potted in Portland, 2627 SE Clinton Street in SE Portland. We're open Wednesday through Sunday.